Girl on the Moon

Nothing holds the imagination of pacific cruising more than the first view this moorish inspired hotel and marina in the northern corner of Manzanillo Bay. Cut out of a side of a cliff, every step, every stone hand laid to give a old world feel. This tranquil hotel has a great little marina. That is a Med-Moor style tie. Which means you have to back into your space, not a slip but a space. This keeps the majority of cruisers out of this marina. 

 Most sailboats do not back-up well and since there is really no Mediterranean style marinas except for this, no one cares to learn. We gave it a shot. Our thinking was the more experience the better. So hailing the marina, Leaha told them this was our first attempt at a Med-Moor. The harbor master said she was understaffed but would come out to help. It turns out there were at least ten Mexicans there at our space to give assistance (our to watch our attempt and laugh). The funny thing about our space was that it was placed next to a 100 foot 5 million dollar mega yacht. I was craping my pants. Two crew members dropped bumpers down the side of the mega yacht. Knowing that I had rarely backed up unless I had too and rarely was it ever straight... I held my breath. We lined up, backing up off a turn, okay straight, 70 feet off the dock Leaha dropped the anchor and started letting chain out. It seemed perfect. Backing up we kept going, 20feet, 10 feet then 5 feet Leaha threw the lines to the guys at the dock and we were done. The look on all of the Mexicans was one of disappointment. No show today. 

One problem with Las Hadas is that at one time it was a world class resort, now it had befallen the same fate as many of the hotels in Mexico in this economy. It was ruff, run down and needing a infusion of capital to bring it back to the greatness it once was. But it was still a great place to visit and relax. 

 One of my disappointments however was Manzanillo. Manzanillo is a commercial port city supplying Mexico City and beyond all sorts of products. It is one of the biggest ports of its kind in Mexico, a careful eye must be kept on commercial traffic when sailing in the area. The city itself is loud and busy, which means a lot pollution. Perhaps we caught it on a bad week. Maybe someday we will try it again.

The short 13 mile leg from Bahia Tenacatita to Melaque was just over 2 hours.  When we arrived, there were only three other boats in this beach front anchorage. This was a tricky anchorage known as "Rocky Melaque" for a reason.  Miss the fish pens.  Set the front anchor.  Then drop the dinghy and set the stern anchor. The key for comfort was to set the bow into the rolls of the waves.  This took setting a good stern anchor and pulling the aft until the bow was pointed into the swell. This worked great until the next day when the winds kicked up into the high 20 knots and a boat on anchor always wants to point into the wind, finally ripped the stern anchor out.  So for the rest of the night we had the "Rocky Melaque" experience. It so happens that the wind that was giving us fits was tearing boats off their anchors in the Barra lagoon.   The radio was alive with panic when 3 boats, who's crews were ashore, slid through the anchorage.  We listened like it was the best soap on tv.  In the end all the other boats rallied, one gal lost her little finger and was sent onshore to get medical attention.  Makes for good radio.

Then next day Leaha and I headed to shore, rowing of course since I fouled the engine. We beached the dinghy in front of the La Sierena restaurant and an old man shook my hand and handed me a menu.  This was nothing new in Mexico,  they are great salesmen.  But, alas I told him we had to go to the bank first (in broken english/spanish).  He got it and we went down the beach to get into the city center.  We went directly to the bank.  Funny thing, thru out Mexico I found the generosity of the Mexican people second to none.  Mind you they don't make much but if there is someone in need.  They always find something to give,  if not money, then food, if not food, maybe just a shirt.  Really impressed.  The Americans would inherently walk by, the Canadians, well some would give.  But the Mexicans, even the ones who had little, would give what they could.  Sadly, we Americans have come to this.  The reason I bring this up now is in front of the bank there was this little fellow in a wheelchair, without the use of his arms.  Bright and cheery he said hello to the gringos and locals.  As we waited in line for the one ATM within 10 miles I watched as Mexicans, Americans and Canadians walked in past this fellow.    It was amazing to see every Mexican gave something.  To a person almost every American did not. I think we have some issues to work out people!

Now Melaque was a nice town hot, wind blown, but nice.  We did find a great place to shop, the Hawaiian store.  Which we found Franzia at only 170 peso a box.  Leaha was overjoyed.   As we went back to the boat the owner of the La Sierena was there smiling.   We sat at a table were the ocean was no more than 10 feet away in the sand and proceeded to have a wonderful meal.  NOTICE!  The best Margarita of the trip was had here, no two of them!  Nice!

Another rolly night led us to move to the Barra Lagoon.  This took timing of high tide and a need to follow the gps marks perfectly.   Even if the GPS showed us 4 miles onshore!  We anchored in 7 feet of water according to the depth finder and this was at high tide. sigh... The Barra Lagoon is a mud sludge bottom so anchors like to run.  As crazy as it sounds after talking to the other boats in the Lagoon, we put out 110 feet of chain.  12 to 1 scope...  Just crazy.  But I do have to say, we did not move while we were there.  In fact, during low tide we set off the depth alarm... 2.8 feet below the hull, not good.  

Barra de Navidad is one of those places, if you come to Mexico, that is a must.  Tight cobblestone streets, busy restaurants,  did I mention a world class resort and golf course/marina? Its just perfect.  I see why people come here to live on there boats.  The lagoon is as quite as a marina as far as boat movements and if you need a ride you can call a water taxi 24/7.   

Every morning the lagoon was visited by Leaha's favorite thing... The French Baker. This mobile panga would visit each boat at about nine in the morning.   "Hello! The French Baker is outside!!"  would come from the vhf on channel 22. Leaha would wait with baited breath... pain au chocolat.  There are few things that truly rule her world.  One is wine,  the other is good pasta,  the last would be a good french pastry.  So to have good pastries given every morning, well, she was in heaven! 

We had four great days here. But the best,  in my opinion was the little town of Colimilla. It is a small town located on the lagoon with small restaurants covering the shoreline.  If you ever get here try the dish Rollo Del Mar.  A perfect fish dish made better by Mahi-Mahi rolled around shrimp then wrapped in bacon and covered with an almond sauce.  You must wash it down with a drink called Coco Loco. It will make the world right!

Now lucky enough, we arrived to Barra de Navidad during Carnival.  The city was alive with energy.  Street food was everywhere. Music. Dancing. Just great!

We have been spending a lot of time in Banderas Bay. While here the boat has been in three different places: the marina in La Cruz, the anchorage in La Cruz and the marina in Nuevo Vallarta. My family even came down for a short visit while we were here. 

La Cruz is a great little town. At first I had some doubts about it's popularity but it has grown on me. The marina here is very nice and reasonably priced. I rank the showers as the best throughout the marinas I've been to in both California and Mexico. The anchorage here is also very easy. It's large and the dinghy ride to shore is short. The town of La Cruz is small and convenient. You can find many great places to eat, from cheap tacos to fine cuisine. One of Mike's favorites is Tacos on the Street. It's simple but perfect. The make their tacos and quesadillas with ribeye steak (Mike's favorite). It's cheap delicious and you get to BYOB! What more can you ask for? For something a bit different there is a yummy Tapas Restaurant with a great wine selection. One of the best dishes I had in Mexico was from Masala in La Cruz. They have a diverse menu with excellent flavors and preparation. There is also an AMAZING fish market located right next to the marina and anchorage in La Cruz.

My family came to visit while we were at Paradise Village Marina in Nuevo Vallarta. This marina is located in a resort so marina guest can use all the amenities. The have a great beach with palapas (with cocktail delivery), a few pools and a zoo. While the family was here we spent a day Puerto Vallarta, relaxed at the beach & pools and took a day trip to Boca de Tomatlan. 

Boca de Tomatlan is at the far south end of Banderas Bay. We had to take a few buses over crazy coastal mountain roads and tunnels to get there. Along the we passed by the set of the classic cult movie Night of the Iguana. Boca de Tomatlan is in a small cove where a river meets the ocean, very picturesque. From Boca we got a panaga (boat) to takes us to a wonderful little restaurant and private beach a few miles away at Playa Colomios (which has no road access). We had an amazing afternoon in Playa Colomitos with a great lunch and playing on the beautiful beach.

After the family left we headed back up to the anchorage in La Cruz. One of the best parts of being on anchor is being able to jump off the boat and swim any day you want! While at the anchorage we prepped to go south while watching many beautiful sunsets. 

This video shows a bit of our daily life on our boat. I left out Mike working on endless boat maintenance and me vacuuming the endless cat hair. You can also video on this youtube.com LINK.